RABBITS

THE GROWN-UP RABBIT

Many people want baby bunnies but please consider the following before you pass-up on a grown bunny:

• A baby bunny is only a baby for a short period of time, even shorter than a kitten or puppy.
• Grown bunnies aren’t as “busy” as baby bunnies and don’t get into as much trouble.
• Grown bunnies are more affectionate and interested in just hanging around with you and being petted.
• Grown bunnies often adjust quickly and easily to a new environment or family.
• Grown bunnies who have been rescued from a shelter TRULY appreciate you – they KNOW how lucky they are!

THINKING ABOUT ADOPTING A BUNNY?

PLEASE ASK YOURSELF THESE QUESTIONS FIRST!

·       Will you love and care for your bunny every day throughout its entire life?  The average lifespan is 8 – 12 years.

·       Can you provide a safe exercise area?  Can you let your bunny out every day for at least 4 hours of exercise?

·       Can you afford vet bills of $200 or more?  Are you willing to pay them if your bunny needs medical care?

·       Are you willing to change your life to meet your bunny’s needs?

·       Did you know rabbits are not always cuddly?  They may prefer not to be held or carried (though they love to be petted!).  Are you patient and understanding with a sense of humor?

·       Are your children over the age of 10 or if younger, well supervised?

DON’T FORGET TO SPAY/NEUTER YOUR BUNNY!

·         Spayed/neutered rabbits that live in the house on the proper diet have a life span of 8 – 12 years.

·         Unspayed/unneutered rabbits that live outside have an average life span of 3 years.

·         Many behavioral problems are a result of a rabbit not being spayed/neutered such as lunging, boxing, grunting, biting, not using the litter box, not wanting to be held, and trying to escape from their living quarters.

·         Spayed/neutered rabbits are much more likely to use their litter box consistently.

·         Rabbits that are not spayed/neutered often spray urine to mark their territory.

·         Approximately 80% of unspayed females get uterine cancer at an early age.

·         Rabbits should always live with at least one other rabbit, if possible. Rabbits that are spayed/neutered are much easier to bond, plus there will be no unwanted litters.

The Conejo Valley Veterinary Hospital has partnered with shelter to make low-cost spay/neuter available to all new shelter rabbit owners.  They have lowered their price to $100 to neuter($125/spay) a shelter bunny and will also provide an initial exam at no cost.  Just bring your shelter paperwork for the discount and free exam.  To schedule your appointment, please contact them directly at:  1850 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, (805) 495-4671, www.conejovet.com .  Don’t forget to take your paperwork!

FEEDING YOUR RABBIT

A rabbit’s diet should be made up of unlimited amounts of grass hay (available at all times), fresh vegetables and very limited pellets and fruit.  Hay is the main source of fiber for rabbits and helps prevent GI stasis (which is life threatening) and a variety of dental problems.  Alfalfa is a poor hay choice as it’s high in calories.  Choose timothy hay, oat hay and/or orchard grass instead.  Mix several kinds together – your bunny will love it!  One heaping cup (per 6 lbs of bunny) of freshly washed vegetables should be fed twice a day.  Carrot tops, dandelion greens, parsley, cilantro and romaine lettuce are just a few of the green, leafy veggies that bunnies enjoy.  Carrots should be given sparingly, no more than a ½ carrot once a day.  Fruit can be given as a treat only.  Strawberries, bananas, blueberries, apples, melons and peaches are good choices but a small piece (about 1 tablespoon) should only be fed a couple times a week.   Feed a high-quality timothy pellet as opposed to the typical alfalfa  pellet.  Pellet “mixes” contain junk food and should never be given.  Even timothy pellets result in fast weight gain and should be limited to 1/4 cup per day (or 1/8 cup twice a day).  Being overweight/obese is life threatening to rabbits.  Always remember “food is not love.”

HEALTH

It’s important to be familiar with your bunny’s eating, drinking, pooping and peeing habits.  Subtle changes in any of these is often the first sign of a health issue.  Be on the look-out for the following: stops eating and/or drinking, eats and/or drinks less than usual, suddenly stops using the litterbox, straining to urinate or urine is sludgy, less droppings than usual or no droppings at all, droppings that are smaller than usual or soft.  If your rabbit displays any of these symptoms for more than a day, take them to the vet.  If symptoms are severe, take them right away, don’t wait. 

Rabbits nails grow continuously and need to be trimmed regularly.  It’s important not to cut them too short, they will bleed and it’s painful for the rabbit.  Your vet or a rabbit rescue can easily teach you how to properly trim your bunnies nails.

EXERCISE

Your bunny needs time outside of their pen every day.  4 hours per day is the minimum, keeping in mind that more is always better.  The better your bunny is about using the litterbox, the larger the area they may have access to for exercise time.  It’s always better to start with a smaller room and work your way up to a larger one.  It may help to place another litterbox or two around the room (or rooms) to maintain good litter box habits when outside the pen.  Always use positive reinforcement when training your bunny, such as treats, petting and praise.  Rabbits do not understand or respond to yelling or punishment.  It makes them afraid of you and does nothing to encourage good behavior.

RABBIT-PROOFING

Any rooms, porches or patios a bunny has access to need to be rabbit-proofed.  Since chewing and digging are natural behaviors, you can’t stop them from doing it (nor should you try).  Instead your goal should be to protect your belongings and your rabbit while directing their attention towards chewing and digging activities that are OK to do.  Provide untreated pine cones, baskets or empty toilet paper/paper towel rolls for chewing.  Cardboard boxes, sisal bird or cat toys, plastic slinkies and plastic baby rattles are also great for rabbits.  Old phone books are perfect for digging.  So is a large litter box of shredded newspaper and hay.  Protect carpets with untreated grass mats.  There are two things on which rabbits like to chew that can be deadly, electrical cords and plants.  Place electrical cords out of reach or encase in plastic tubing.  Most houseplants are toxic to rabbits so it’s best to remove them from any room the rabbit has access to.  Placing them on tables or shelves may not be as safe as you think depending on your bunny.  You’d be surprised where rabbits end up climbing!

HOUSING

Whenever possible rabbits should live indoors so they can become part of the family.  Rabbits are very social, affectionate pets that enjoy being included in a family’s daily life.  The best option for housing is a portable exercise pen.  These pens can be set-up in a variety of shapes and can be set-up or taken anywhere.

If space is limited a large cage is an acceptable habitat as well.  Rather than purchasing a typical rabbit cage though, which is often too small, a dog crate is  an excellent alternative.  They’re made of wire, just like a traditional rabbit cage, but are typically much larger.  They also have a solid bottom which is a must.  Rabbits should not be kept in a cage with a wire floor, it’s bad for their feet and uncomfortable for the rabbit.  The minimum recommended size is about 36 inches wide x 24 inches deep and tall enough for your rabbit to stand on it’s hind feet.  The bottom of a rabbits cage should never be filled with wood shavings.  They’re bad for rabbits (may cause liver damage) and discourage the rabbit from using a litter box.

LITTERBOX TRAINING

Pour a layer of rabbit-safe litter such as CareFresh® pet bedding or Petco® Paper Pellet Litter at the bottom of a litter box and pile lots of hay on top.  Never use clumping cat litter or wood/pine shavings (even though shavings are marketed for rabbit use, they’re really not safe for rabbits).  Place the box in the corner of the pen the rabbit uses naturally.  Treats may be placed in the box and praise should be given when the bunny sits in or uses the box.   White vinegar cleans up accidents nicely and is safe for rabbits.

FURNISHINGS

In addition to a litter box, you need a large water bottle and a heavy crock for pellets.  Pyrex pie plates are great for serving veggies.  Bunnies like wood sitting boards and untreated grass mats.  A 12 in x 12 in piece (or two!) of ceramic tile can be used to keep bunnies cool in the summer.  And don’t forget the toys!  Untreated pine cones, baskets, willow wreaths, empty toilet paper/paper towel rolls, sisal bird or cat toys, plastic slinkies and tunnels (cardboard or plastic) provide hours of amusement  for rabbits.

BUNNY BONDING

If you already  have a bunny and want to adopt a companion, you must introduce them gradually.  Never just “put rabbits together” thinking they’ll automatically get along.  Serious injury will most likely occur to one or both rabbits.  Always spay/neuter before beginning the bonding process.  Please visit www.rabbit.org for step-by-step instructions for bonding rabbits.

Pet MD – The Pet Health Authority:  www.petmd.com